Keratins and Lipids in Ethnic Hair

    Célia F. Cruz, Margarida M. Fernandes, Andreia C. Gomes, Luísa Coderch, Meritxell Martı́, Sialia Karina Mellink-Méndez, Luı́s Gales, Nuno G. Azóia, Ulyana Shimanovich, Artur Cavaco‐Paulo
    TLDR African hair's keratin structure is influenced by its higher lipid content.
    The study explored the content and distribution of lipids in ethnic hair types—African, Asian, and Caucasian—and their interaction with keratin, the primary structural protein in hair. It was found that African hair contained a higher percentage of internal lipids compared to other ethnicities. This lipid concentration influenced the keratin structure, as evidenced by the absence of axial diffraction in X-ray analysis, which returned to normal after lipid removal. Molecular dynamics simulations showed that lipids intercalated with keratin dimers, altering their structure. The findings suggested that the keratin structure in African hair was affected by its higher lipid content.
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